FAQ, Problems and Solutions

FAQ's - Common Hair Adjustments

VERY LIGHT BLONDE SHOWS DISCOLORATION

A light-blonde client with very porous hair asked for an ash-based toner shade. Result shows green, blue or purplish discoloration.

Because the client’s over-porous hair did not have enough contributing pigment to support the toner, results are off-tone and appear discolored. When this occurs, do not dry the hair as this "sets" off-color tones and makes it more difficult to remove. Instead, rinse color from hair and immediately perform a color removal procedure.

  • Mix
    2 oz. of 20-volume developer plus 1 Activator Packette. Add 1 oz. Complements Lightening Gel plus 2-3 pumps shampoo. Apply to discolored areas for 7-10 minutes.
  • Or mix
    2 oz. Luminize Clear with 2 oz. Luminize Developer and apply for up to 10 minutes.

Next time, strand test to determine correct color selection and development time. Intermix a neutral or warm shade in the same Level as the selected shade to prevent off-tones.

WHITE HAIR SHOWS GREEN/PURPLE OFF-TONES

A white-haired client tinted light blonde sees green/purple off-tones in the hair.

The color selected was too ash/cool for the percentage of white in the hair.

  • Remix the formula, adding up to 1 oz. of a gold or neutral-based color in the same Level. The overall formula should be at least a Level 8-Light Blonde. Reapply the new formula. Check frequently. Less processing time may be required.
  • Next time, add 1/2 to 1 oz. of a warm, gold, or neutral tone to original formula, or select a different shade. Strand test to determine correct color selection and development time.

OVERLY LIGHTENED HAIR

Client’s hair is overly lightened.

Do a tintback. When creating a darker color on hair that has been lightened, it is necessary to rebuild missing color pigments to act as a foundation for the final color result. Here’s how:

  1. Choose a Second Nature shade in the client’s desired Level and tone. Add 1/2 oz. 155R-Red to the formula and mix with equal parts of 20-volume developer.
  2. Apply formula to hair and process 15-30 minutes. Strand test frequently.
  3. Rinse, shampoo and condition.
Example

Tintback formula for Level 4-Light Brown. Mix the following:

  • 1 1/2 oz. Second Nature 138N-Light Natural Brown
  • 1/2 oz. Second Nature 155R-Red.
  • 2 oz. 20-volume Pure White Creme Developer

Follow the 3 steps above for application and timing.

NEUTRALIZE UNWANTED BRASSY TONES

Client’s haircolor shows overall orange and gold tones from roots to ends.

To combat brassy tones, use Complements True Tone Gel Color. The Complements tones will neutralize unwanted brassy tones.

  1. Choose one of the following Complements Long-Lasting Semi-Permanent formulas:
    For brunettes:
    • 1 oz. Complements 4A-S Light Ash Brown
    • 1 oz. Complements 6A-S Dark Ash Blonde
    • 2 oz. Complements Color Prompter
    For blondes:
    • 2 oz. Complements 8A-S Light Ash Blonde
    • 2 oz. Complements Color Prompter
  2. Apply the formula to shampooed, towel-dried hair in a quick roots-to-ends method of application.
  3. Process 5-15 minutes until the brassy tones have been neutralized.
    Note: Remember, with any corrective color application, it is important to strand test frequently for accurate color results.
  4. Rinse, shampoo and condition.

UNWANTED GREENISH CAST

Client’s single-processed haircolor shows green undertones.

Determine the cause of the greenish cast (e.g., chlorinated water, semi-permanent ash color build-up, mineral build-up, etc.) to prevent this problem from recurring.

  • Use Uncolor Semi-Permanent Color Remover to remove any chemical/semi-permanent color build-up. Apply Uncolor to dry hair and work into a lather. Then cover with a plastic cap. Process under a dryer for up to 30 minutes. Rinse, shampoo lightly, and dry hair under a cool dryer.
  • If the hair still appears green after the Uncolor treatment, choose one of the following Complements Long-Lasting Semi-Permanent True Tone Gel Color formulas to neutralize the unwanted green tones:
    For brunettes:
    • 2 oz. Complements 6RC-S Dark Red-Copper Blonde
    • 2 oz. Complements Color Prompter
    For blondes:
    • 2 oz. Complements 8RC-S Light Red-Copper Blonde
    • 2 oz. Complements Color Prompter
  • Apply formula in a quick roots-to-ends method of application. Strand test frequently and process until the green tones are no longer visible. Rinse, shampoo and condition.

HIGHLIGHTS TOO LIGHT

Client’s highlighted hair looks too white, making it appear gray.

Deposit tone onto the highlights without lightening the natural haircolor. To do this, try Second Nature, the no-ammonia, no-lift, long-lasting semi-permanent haircolor.
Here’s how to use it:

  1. Choose Second Nature shade 158G Light Golden Blonde (Level 8-Light Blonde) or 142G Medium Golden Blonde (Level 7-Medium Blonde).
  2. Using a bowl and brush, or a plastic applicator bottle, mix:
    • 2 oz. Second Nature
    • 2 oz. 10-volume Pure White Creme Developer
  3. Apply to damp hair in a quick roots-to-ends method of application over the entire head.
  4. Strand test every 5 minutes to determine accurate color results on the highlighted strands. Process up to 15 minutes.
  5. When desired color results have been achieved, rinse, shampoo and condition.

DARK COLOR BUILD-UP ON ENDS

Client’s natural hair is a Level 3-Medium Brown and about 30% gray. Due to coloring her hair at home, there is dark color build-up on the ends. She wants to be a Level 4-Light Brown with no gray.

Begin by removing the old color from the ends and then use Miss Clairol to achieve a Level 4-Light Brown. Here’s how:

  1. Step 1
    • Remove the dark color build-up with Complements Lightening Gel. It will remove the build-up while adding moisture and protein.
    • Mix 4 oz. of 20-volume Clairol Professional Pure White Creme Developer with 1 Complements Lightening Activator packette until dissolved. Add 2 oz. of Complements Lightening Gel. Mix thoroughly.
    • Apply the Lightening Gel mixture to the dark pieces of hair only. Watch until the color develops into a deep orange.
    • Rinse and shampoo lightly.
  2. Step 2
    • Mix 2 oz. of Miss Clairol GrayBusters 84N with equal parts of 20-volume Developer.
    • Apply the color to damp hair, from roots to mid-shaft.
    • Process 20 minutes.
    • Bring remaining color over the prelightened ends and process for another 10 minutes, for a total of 30 minutes.
    • Rinse, shampoo, and style.

OVER-HIGHLIGHTED BLONDE HAIR

Client’s haircolor is over-highlighted due to sun exposure and repeated haircoloring services. Her natural haircolor is Level 5-Lightest Brown.

To correct over-highlighted hair, simply add lowlights (darker strands of hair) to replenish depth and dimension to blonde hair that has become too light. We suggest that you use a non-ammonia, gentle no-lift color such as Complements Long-Lasting Semi-Permanent True Tone Gel Color.

Mix 2 oz. Complements 8N-S Light Natural Blonde with 2 oz. Complements Color Prompter.

Using a Level 8-Light Blonde will put just the right amount of depth back into the over-highlighted blonde pieces, even if your client is a natural Level 4-Light Brown or Level 5-Lightest Brown. Don’t be tempted to select a shade at the natural haircolor Level. The final result will look too dark.

Foil: Place one slice of hair into foil. The more foils you place into the hair the heavier the lowlights will be.
Cap: Pull one strand of hair through the cap. The more holes you use, the heavier the lowlights will be.

Timing: For foils, process for up to 15 minutes at room temperature after the last foil is placed. If using a cap method, begin timing after the color is applied.

Rinse, shampoo and condition.

HOME LIGHTENING CREATED DAMAGED GOLD/ORANGE HAIR

Client tried to lighten her Natural Level 4-Light Brown hair to a Level 9-Very Light Blonde using repeated applications of haircolor and lightening products. The result is damaged, gold-orange hair.

The first step is to evaluate the porosity and strength of the hair and consult with the client. Based on the number of chemical processes already on the hair, the options are limited.

Recommend a soft neutral Level 6-Dark Blonde color using a gentle, nonammonia product like Complements Long-Lasting Semi-Permanent True Tone Gel Color. By combining neutral and blue/violet Complements shades, the formula will help neutralize the gold-orange base. Here’s how:

  1. Mix the following formula in a bottle or bowl:
    • 1-1/2 oz. Complements Semi-Permanent Gel Color 6N-S Dark Natural Blonde
    • 1/2 oz. Complements Semi-Permanent Gel Color 6A-S Dark Ash Blonde
    • 2 oz. Complements Color Prompter
  2. Because of this client’s extreme hair porosity, apply the formula to damp hair, first at the scalp and 1-inch out, then down the shaft to the ends.
  3. Strand-test to determine timing, checking every 5 minutes up to 15 minutes.
  4. When desired results are achieved, rinse, shampoo and condition.

LONG-LASTING SEMI-PERMANENT DEPOSITS UNEVEN COLOR

Long-lasting semi/demi-permanent (deposit-only) haircolor is depositing unevenly because your client uses shine-enhancing haircare products. These are silicone- or oil-based and leave a residue on the hair which blocks penetration of deposit-only haircolo

Evaluate your client’s hair prior to the application of deposit-only haircolor. If buildup is present, hair may appear "dull" and feel "waxy".

To eliminate buildup and prepare hair for deposit-only color, use Metalex Conditioner and Color Corrective to gently clarify the hair without altering the natural haircolor.

  1. Apply Metalex to dry hair directly from the bottle.
  2. Work into a lather, making sure all hair is covered.
  3. Process 5-10 minutes. Do not use heat.
  4. Rinse, shampoo and condition.

GOLD BANDS

After a retouch, your blonding client’s hair is not an even blonde from roots to ends. Between hair shaft and regrowth is a brassy gold "band".
The gold band appears because your double-processed blonde client waited too lon

To correct the gold band, you must relighten the band area first.

  1. Use a stay-put lightener, such as Complements Lightening Gel mixed with lightening activators to maximize the lightening action on this off-the-scalp area. Try to keep the lightener within the band area and don’t overlap onto the newly retouched regrowth or shaft.
  2. Apply toner shade (such as Creme Toner), beginning at roots and bringing down through the shaft. Process for up to 15 minutes. This will give you an even blonde from roots to ends.
How to avoid this problem in the future:

Consult with your client and encourage retouches about every 4 weeks, or when the regrowth is 1/4-inch. Less regrowth will ensure more even results because the lightener is assisted by the scalp heat at the roots.

ALL-OVER VIBRANT RED GOES MUDDY

Your client’s once-vibrant red haircolor has "browned out" at midshaft and ends, while remaining vibrant at the roots.

Restore vibrant red with a Complements Lightening Gel "gel bath" technique.

  1. Give hair a "gel bath":
    • Mix in an applicator bottle:
      1. 1 oz. Complements Lightening Gel
      2. 1 packette Lightening Activator
      3. 2 oz. 20-volume developer
      4. 2 pumps of shampoo
    • Apply by working formula through brownish areas to remove build-up.
    • Process 7 to 10 minutes at room temperature.
    • Rinse thoroughly.
  2. Restore red vibrancy :

For example, if existing color is Complements 6RC(P) Dark Red-Copper Blonde:

  • Mix and apply to brownish areas 2 oz. of Complements 6RC(S) Dark Red-Copper Blonde and 2 oz. Complements Color Prompter.
  • Process up to 15 minutes at room temperature.
  • Rinse thoroughly.

DEPOSIT-ONLY COLOR IS TOO BRIGHT

The client’s natural Level was too light or too high a percentage of gray was present to support an intense shade of deposit-only color.

  • Apply UNCOLOR Semi-Permanent Haircolor Remover as directed.
    (NOTE: For best results, color removal procedure should be administered immediately after rinsing semi-permanent color from hair. Do not dry hair as this "sets" color and makes it more difficult to remove.)
  • Or apply Luminize Clear for up to 10 minutes.

If brightness still persists, select and apply a cooler-toned semi-permanent haircolor in the same or deeper level. Process until desired results are achieved. Check frequently.

Next time, intermix a neutral shade in the same Level as the selected intense shade.

OVERALL HAIRCOLOR IS TOO DARK

Client with over-porous hair requested darker color, but overall haircolor is too dark (up to 1 Level).

  • Mix a Complements Lightening Gel bath: 2 oz. 20-volume developer +1 Activator Packette. Add 1 oz. Complements Lightening Gel + 2-3 pumps shampoo. Apply to dark areas for 7-10 minutes.
  • Or apply Luminize Clear for up to 10 minutes. Re-apply lighter color if necessary.

COLOR IS TOO DARK AT TEMPLE AREA

The client’s hair at the temples is fine textured, absorbed the color, and looks too dark.

  1. Mix Complements Lightening Gel with 20-volume developer.
  2. Apply to the temple area. Check frequently until desired result is achieved.
  3. Rinse and shampoo.
  4. Mix the chosen formula using 1-2 Levels lighter shade and re-apply to the temple areas.

Next time, dilute formula with a lighter color before applying to sides and temple area.

HAIRCOLOR DEVELOPED TOO LIGHT

Blonde color did not appear to cover gray and pigmented hair is too "warm". The client’s hair is dark medium brown with 50% gray.

The Level of haircolor selected for this client was too light. When using permanent color, the lighter your formula, the more warmth you will create on the pigmented hair and the less gray coverage you will achieve.

  1. Reformulate a shade within 2 Levels of natural haircolor and apply.
  2. Check frequently. Less processing time may be required for this second application.

HAIRCOLOR DEVELOPS HOT ROOTS

You just created a beautiful redhead. However, the client’s warm scalp processed the color brighter at the scalp. The root area is bright or has "hot roots."

Cool down the color

  • Use a Neutral (for slight toning) or Ash (for greater toning) in the same Level or slightly deeper than the formula used.
  • Mix 2 oz. of color with 2 oz. of 10 volume and apply to root area.

Check frequently until desired results are achieved.
Next time, use a lower volume of developer at the scalp area

Or select the next deeper Level of red and apply.
If there is a high percentage of gray, add 1/2 to 1 oz. of a neutral shade to the formula for the scalp area.

DARK OR DRAB ENDS

Client has received repeated semi-permanent or long-lasting semi-permanent color applications and the haircolor is dark and drab on the ends.

NOTE: For best results, color removal procedure should be administered immediately after rinsing semi-permanent color from hair. Do not dry hair as this "sets" color and makes it more difficult to remove.