FAQ, Problems and Solutions

FAQ's - Dimensional Color

HIGHLIGHTING VERY CURLY HAIR

Using foils to highlight ultra-curly hair is difficult to do.

Foiling techniques require weaving-out thin strands of hair, which is difficult to do on very curly hair. Instead of foils, try a freeform highlighting technique, such as painting-on or combing-on color or lightener.

STRIPES OR SPOTS AFTER FOIL HIGHLIGHTING

Zebra-like stripes or spots appear after foil highlighting.

During processing, product leaked out of the foils, or some foils slipped away from the client’s scalp area. Formulate and apply a permanent color that matches the natural Level, mixed with 10-volume developer. Process until desired result is achieved.

Next time, during a foil application, apply the product 1/4- to 1/8-inch away from edge. While foils are processing, check for "bleeding". Wipe any excess lightener away and dab conditioner to affected area.

WINTER HAIRCOLOR NEEDS SPRING PICK-UP

Client’s hair is dry and haircolor is dull and lackluster.

Clarify, moisturize and add lots of shine to the hair. Here’s how:

  1. Remove any styling product build-up with purifying and clarifying Shampoo.
  2. Rinse hair well and towel dry.
  3. Use Radiance Moisture-Rich Colorgloss Clear Shine.
    • Mix: In an applicator bottle, 2 oz. Radiance Clear Shine with 2 oz. Radiance Color Infuser.
    • Apply: Work quickly and thoroughly through the hair.
    • Process: 15 minutes at room temperature.
    • Rinse: Do not shampoo.
  4. For extra conditioning and combability, condition hair.

SINGLE-PROCESS HIGHLIGHTS ON DARKEST LEVELS OF HAIR

reating single-process highlights on darkest Levels of hair.
Clients with Natural Level 2-Dark Brown to Level 4-Light Brown hair want highlights, but you’ve been told that High-Lift Blonde shades were developed for Level 5-Lightest Bro

High-Lift Blondes can certainly be used for single-process highlights on darker Natural Levels. The highlights achieved will be at a Level of lightness desirable for darker hair: Level 5-Lightest Brown to Level 8-Light Blonde.

Guidelines:

  1. When lightening darker Levels of hair, the natural contributing pigment (red to red-orange) will be exposed. Select a blue-or violet-based shade, such as Miss Clairol Extra Blondes HL-B or HL-V, to drab out as much warmth as possible.
  2. Always do a preliminary Strand Test on a full length of hair (roots to ends) to determine the timing for the final result you want.
  3. Mixing: In a non-metallic bowl, mix 2 oz. Miss Clairol Extra Blondes with 4 oz. 40-volume Pure White Creme Developer. (NOTE: 40-volume developer is not recommended for relaxed hair.)
  4. Application: Apply using the cap or foil method. When using foils, depending on your speed, some sections will process sooner. Repeatedly check the first and last foil in each section. When desired lightness has been achieved, remove the foil and wipe the hair with a wet towel to remove color.

QUICK-AND-EASY HIGHLIGHTS ON A PRE-TEEN CLIENT

The pre-teen daughter of one of your regular clients wants highlights and her mother finally agrees to something "simple".

Use the quick-and-easy one-step lightener, Kaleidocolors Tonal Powder Lightener. It lightens, brightens and softly tones in one process. You can foil in, comb on, scrunch in, or create your own free-form technique. Choose from Kaleidocolors shades: Neutral, Blue and Gold. Each processes in 4 to 10 minutes under the dryer. Simple, quick and inexpensive.

ADD HIGHLIGHTS TO SHORT HAIR

Your client’s hair needs the sparkle that only highlights can give, but his/her new short-short haircut is only 1-inch to 1 1/2-inches long, too short for foils. This technique can be performed on any Level of haircolor.

Instead of foils, use a back-comb or comb-on application with an off-the-scalp lightening product.

  1. Mix formula: In a plastic or glass bowl, mix 3 level scoops of BW2000 with 2-1/2 oz. of 10, 20 or 30-volume Pure White Developer, depending on the hair’s porosity, texture, degree of lightness desired, and natural Level.
  2. Choose your method of application:
    1. Back-Comb Method: Comb the hair into desired pattern direction. Use a medium to large-toothed comb to back-comb small sections of hair down to the scalp. Keep the ends loose. Use gloved fingers to apply a small amount of powder-lightener mixture to loose ends.
    2. Comb-On Method: Comb the hair into desired style. Coat the ends of a wide-toothed comb with powder-lightener mixture. Hold the comb at a 45-degree angle and gently surface-comb mixture onto hair.
  3. Process until desired result is achieved, then rinse, shampoo and condition.
  4. Optional next step: For a tonality change, apply Creme Toner to lightened strands. Choose a blue or blue-violet based toner to subdue unwanted yellow, or a yellow-based toner to create a sheer, golden blonde. Mix with 20-volume Clairol Professional developer and apply to shampooed, towel-dried hair. Process 5-10 minutes. One-half to one Level of lightening may occur on the Natural Level. Rinse, shampoo and condition.

CREATE HIGHLIGHTS ON DARKER LEVELS OF HAIR

Your Natural Level 2-Dark Brown client wants to add dimension to her dull, lackluster hair, but does not want unnatural blonde highlights.

Create natural-looking dimension by adding lighter-brown highlights on Level 3-Medium Brown to Level 2-Dark Brown hair with Complements Permanent True Tone Gel Color instead of using a lightener, which would create an unnatural-looking blonde.

  1. Lowlight the hair below the occipital bone.
    Mix Complements (P) Light Natural Brown 4N and 10-volume developer in equal amounts. Take wide weaves and space foils 1/2-inch apart.
  2. Highlight above the occipital, the sides and top of the head.
    Mix Complements (P) Dark Ash Blonde 6A with 30-volume developer in equal amounts. Take wide weaves and space foils 1/2-inch apart.
  3. Process: After the final weave, process the hair at room temperature for up to 30 minutes. Remove all foils. DO NOT RINSE.
  4. Create a shimmer of color, using a rapid shampoo-in application.
    Mix:
    • 1 oz. Complements (P) Light Neutral Brown 4N
    • 1 oz. Complements (P) Dark Ash Blonde 6
    • 2 oz. 20-volume developer
  5. Process at room temperature for only 10 minutes.
  6. Rinse, shampoo and condition.

GOLDEN HIGHLIGHTS WITHOUT PRE-LIGHTENING

Your client has very porous Level 3-Medium Brown hair, but wants vibrant light-golden warm highlights. She doesn’t have the time for a double-process.

Highlight with Kaleidocolors Gold Tonal Powder Lightener, for maximum lightening in a minimum amount of time. It lightens and tones in only one step, and guarantees a beautiful gold end result!

  1. Mix 1 oz. of Kaleidocolors Gold with 2 oz. of any Clairol Professional 20-volume developer.
  2. Apply in your choice of application: foils, cap, comb-on, brush-on.
  3. Process 10 minutes without heat. Strand test after 4 minutes.
  4. Rinse, lightly shampoo and condition.