Sectioning and Saturation

Before You Color

  • Always do a preliminary patch test 48 hours before applying color.
  • Always do a color preview strand test.

Virgin Application: Going Darker

Use this method when color is close to or deeper than the natural Level of hair color.

  1. Part hair in 4 equal sections.
  2. Apply to dry hair. Take ¼ to ½ inch partings and begin application at root area, working color all the way down to the ends immediately. Apply generously with applicator bottle or brush, making sure hair is thoroughly saturated.

    Note: If ends are porous or damaged, apply the mixture only to three-quarters of the strand first. Allow mixture to develop for about 15 minutes, then work through to the ends. Strand test the ends to determine color development and timing.

  3. Allow color to develop for a minimum of 15 minutes.
  4. Do a strand test for color development. (Normal processing time is approximately 30 minutes, but for maximum lightening and gray coverage allow complete development time of 45 minutes.)
  5. When desired color is achieved, spray hair with a little warm water and work into lather at the shampoo bowl. Rinse thoroughly.
  6. Shampoo and rinse until water runs clear.

Virgin Application: Going Lighter

Use this method when the color is one or more Levels lighter than your client's natural hair color Level.

  1. Part hair in 4 equal sections.
  2. Apply to dry hair, beginning one inch away from scalp, down to and including the ends. Use the applicator bottle or brush. Application is made 1 inch away from scalp because the hair away from the root area receives less natural body heat and will take a little longer to decolorize.
  3. Allow color to develop for a minimum of 15 minutes. Check strand for color development.
  4. Continue checking until hair is decolorized half as much as desired.
  5. Mix a fresh hair color formula and apply to root area, making certain that hair shafts and ends are thoroughly re-saturated.
  6. After 15 minutes, check a strand for color development. (Normal processing time is approximately 30 minutes, but for maximum lightening and gray coverage allow complete development time of 45 minutes). Leave color on hair until color is uniform from roots to ends.
  7. At shampoo bowl, spray hair with a little warm water and work into lather and rinse thoroughly.
  8. Shampoo and rinse until water runs clear.

Note for experienced stylists:

If you are an experienced colorist, you may wish to use 30-or 40-volume developer in the formula for use on the shaft and ends.

When application to shaft and ends is complete, immediately mix a fresh formula using 10- or 20-volume developer and apply to root area.

For longer hair, use cotton strips to protect the root area while color is applied to shaft and ends.

Retouch Application

Refer to your records for the previously used formula and timing, and be sure to do a patch test 48 hours before retouching.

  1. Part hair in 4 equal sections.
  2. Apply to dry hair, using applicator bottle or brush. Outline each section separately with the color formula.
  3. Using the tip of the applicator nozzle or brush handle, make - to -inch parts and generously apply the hair color mixture to new growth area only.
    • If lightening the hair, start application where hair is the darkest
    • If gray hair is present, begin application at the grayest portion of the hair
  4. Check color development periodically, using your hair color record as a timing guide. Test strand and check color until desired shade is reached. Be sure to reapply hair color to strand after each test.