RED HAIR COLOR FORMULATIONS FROM ANITA
Anita Gutierrez, Clairol Professional Lead Color MasterRed is such a flattering hair color! It makes the skin look more radiant and can be worn by everyone. It’s just a matter of formulating the right shade. As a general rule of thumb, bright, coppery-red shades are best for those with creamy complexions; the more olive the skin tone, the darker auburn the red should be.
During your consultation with red wannabe clients, emphasize the importance of maintaining a regular retouch/refresh schedule (a minimum of 4 to 6 weeks between appointments), as all red hair color has a tendency to fade or oxidize brown over time.
Formulation Guidelines
If you’re having issues with “hot roots” when using reds, try this.Determine percentage of gray in the hair (25%, 50%, 75%).
Formulate:
- For 25% gray, add ½-oz. of a neutral shade to your red formula.
- Example: Natural Level 4
- 1 1/2 oz. liquicolor permanente 4RR/204RR
- 1/2 oz. liquicolor permanente 4N/84N
- 2 oz. 20-volume developer
- For 50% gray, add 1 oz. of a neutral shade to your red formula.
- Example: Natural Level 6
- 1 oz. liquicolor permanente 6RR/206RR
- 1 oz. liquicolor permanente 7N/87N
- 2 oz. 20-volume developer
- For 75% gray, add 1 1/2 oz. of a neutral shade to your red formula.
- Example: Natural Level 4
- 1 1/2 oz. liquicolor permanente 4N/84N
- ½ oz. liquicolor permanente 3RR/203RR
- 2 oz. 20-volume developer